Our Manaslu expedition is a complete climbing adventure of a 8000 meter peak in the fabulous Himalayas, no doubt the best alternative to Cho Oyu, with a more diverse landscape and challenging climbing experience. Manaslu Peak (8163 m) towers steeply above its surrounding foothills and is the most spectacular, dominant peak when viewed from afar. It is the eight highest mountain and is located in the restricted trekking region of Manaslu in mid west Nepal.
Any Manaslu expedition is much more technical and challenging than Cho Oyu and Sishapangma, so each climber has to have excellent physical and mental preparation as well as a high level of climbing proficiency and altitude adeptness above 6000 metres. Mountain Monarch offers a complete service to maximize the success of achieving the summit of Manaslu.
Our Manaslu expedition includes the use of oxygen and regulators and ensures that the ratio of climbing sherpas to expedition climbing members is 1:2. On all of our expeditions, our climbing sherpas are 8000 metre experienced and most of them have reached the summit of Manaslu. Post monsoon or autumn is the best time for Manaslu expeditions.
We follow the Burigandaki valley trail up to Samagoan and our first acclimatization day is scheduled at 4600 metres before we head up to Manaslu Base Camp at 4750 m. On the Manaslu Glacier, we carefully follow the bamboo marker wands and use fixed ropes to cross the serious crevasses and dangerous sections. We make our Manaslu Expedition Camp 1 at 5700 metres at the bottom of the North Peak right above the glacier on a protected area.
Expedition Camp 2 is located at the safe section of the climb on a relatively flat area at 6400 metres although while at this campsite there can be a lot of snow accumulation. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is one of the shortest days and only takes around 3 hours. We make our Camp 3 at the elevation of 6800 metres just below the col to avoid the very strong winds so we ensure that all our tents are anchored properly.
The route continues up the remaining glacier climbing steep sections of snow and ice with safety towards Camp 4 at 7400 meter which is the last camp on our Manaslu expedition. Finally we have to traverse past sadly exposed remnants of former expeditions – smashed tents and dumped garbage – to reach the Summit Camp – a tiring day involving a 6 to 8 hours climb.
Manaslu climbing expedition Summit Day starts in the late evening and the route heads immediately up a moderate slope from the summit camp before arriving at the first of the summit tables. The route climbs three separate levels before arriving at the final pyramid slope.
From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until we reach the pre-summit. The ultimate summit is reached by an exposed technical traverse for around a distance of 70 metres – this section needs to have fixed ropes in place.
The climb from Camp 4 to the fantastic summit takes between 6-9 hours with 3-5 hours for the descent to Camp 4. Next day we return to Base Camp to end our successful attempt to climb magnificent Manaslu. We use trusted Mountain Hardware tents on while on our challenging expedition climb to Manaslu Peak